How to Use Protein Treatments on Natural Hair
One of the most common questions I get is “how do I know when to use protein on my natural hair?” The answer to that is…it truly depends on a number of factors. Here a few other questions to consider in helping you decide if protein and/or which type of protein treatment is right for you.
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What is the purpose of protein for hair?
Protein treatments are conditioning treatments formulated to add strength and resiliency to your hair by filling gaps in the cuticle with hydrolyzed proteins, creating an extra layer of protection.
Hair is composed primarily of keratin (90-95%), a protein responsible for its strength and flexibility. Using external protein agents can strengthen the hair shaft, improve moisture retention, and add shine.
Protein treatments vary in strength and purpose. For example, plain Greek yogurt is an inexpensive, widely available product you can incorporate into your deep conditioning regimen to restore hair elasticity and enhance overall hair health.
Some store-bought protein treatments, such as the Aphogee Two Step Protein Treatment, are hair reconstructors. These treatments are designed for overly-processed or damaged hair, providing intensive repair and strengthening. Therefore, it is important to choose the right type of protein treatment for your hair's specific needs.
How to determine if your hair needs protein?
Determining if your hair needs protein involves a few key considerations. Generally, finer hair requires more protein compared to coarse hair. Coarse hair has three structural layers (cortex, cuticle, and medulla), making it more resistant to breakage and damage. In contrast, fine hair typically lacks the medulla, the innermost part of the hair shaft.
While the medulla doesn't serve a specific purpose, its presence in coarse hair contributes to its strength due to the higher keratin protein content.
As a result, fine hair is more fragile and prone to breakage, split ends, and damage because of protein deficiency. This fragility often causes fine hair to feel dry, not because it lacks moisture but because it lacks sufficient protein.
Even if you have coarse hair or don't think you need protein, it's still important to assess your hair's condition.
If your hair feels limp, stringy, or overly elastic, it may benefit from a protein treatment. Protein treatments are especially beneficial for highly processed or damaged hair. Although at-home protein treatments are safe for all hair types, they might not be necessary for strong, healthy hair.
How often to use protein on natural hair?
It's important to assess your hair's needs by "listening" to it to find the proper moisture-protein balance. Just as we respond to our body's signals when we're dehydrated by eating citrus-rich fruits or drinking water, we need to understand what our hair is telling us.
Keep in mind the following:
Protein Overload: Using protein treatments too often or using the wrong type of protein can lead to protein overload, which is more damaging than too much moisture. Different proteins serve different purposes—some are for maintaining healthy hair, while others are for repairing damaged hair.
Usage Frequency: For healthy hair, limit protein treatments to once every 4-6 weeks. Damaged hair may benefit from protein treatments 2-3 times a month.
When in doubt, seek a second opinion or professional advice. Not all protein treatments are created equal and can be damaging if misused, especially for damaged hair. Consulting a professional or researching the various protein treatments available on the market is crucial.
If you need personalized advice, feel free to contact me as your hair coach! I'm here to help with your specific natural hair needs.
